Enroute from Isla de la Plata to Lima, Peru
September 2010
We became the trailblazers as not many boats have gone this route-currents and winds are not always in the boaters favor. So we took off from Isla de la Plata, Ecuador and one day out our radar stops working. Great, so this means we have about a 500 mile journey, many nights to travel, oil wells off the northern coast of Peru, fishing boats, no fog (thank god) and what to do? Marc, great captain that he is, takes the first nights watch for 7 hours so that I am not a bitc….from lack of sleep. Thereafter we do 6 hours each and I get the early morning shift from 4am – 10am. Every morning I get to see the sunrise, to see the world come alive. The lack of radar gives a new challenge to our cruising and Marc charts us to have an anchorage every night or two. We can’t make landfall because we have already checked out of Ecuador and will not check into PERU until we get to Lima. Marc has documented every location that we stopped and we now can share this info with fellow boaters. We were told and advised not to stop in Peru until we had checked in but we took the sailor’s 5th Amendment “if you are tired ( we would be) have needed boat repairs (what boat doesn’t? or can’t say they have) or need fuel (we did eventually) you can pull in a port.
Entering northern Peruvian waters was like going thru the Cape Cod Canal-oil rigs, lights and boats everywhere meant constant vigilance. So it took us a month to reach our destination, Lima, but we stopped at some beautiful places.
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Thursday, March 31, 2011
Monday, October 11, 2010
ISLA DE LA PLATA, ECUADOR
Isla de la Plata (Silver Island) is known as “the poor man’s Galapagos” and is an hour off-shore between Manta and Puerto Lopez, and north of Guayaquil. Once privately owned it is now Parque Nacional Machalilla. It is usual and customary to go to Puerto Lopez and take a tour boat to get there or pay and get a permit to visit. We play ignorant and pull in and pick up the solo mooring ball. This island, much like the Galapagos, is known for blue/red-footed, and masqued boobies, frigates, albatross, and sea lions. We are no longer in equatorial climates as temperature is influenced by the Humboldt current and we bring out the down comforter.. We anchor and sleep well. Next day the park ranger approaches informing us we need a permit. After much disjointed conversation we learn it is the rangers birthday and invite him and 3 volunteers aboard. Needless to say, after many rum punches and appetizers we no longer need the permit and they invite us to visit the island the next day after the day-tours boats have left. As we are lingering on the bow with our drinks and shining a light into the water seeing hundreds of trumpet fish we see little turtles swimming toward the boat. We were present on one of the two nights a year when the sea turtle eggs hatch and all of a sudden we are surrounded by baby sea turtles learning how to swim.
Now picture this. The baby sea turtle, in pitch black darkness, cracks open its shell, figures out which way is up, digs its way to the surface of the sand, figures out which way is the sea and than waddles down to it, and without a second thought, plunks itself into the vastness of the Pacific Ocean, after leaving the warmth and security of its egg. It than must instantly learn how to swim and stick its head above water to breath.
Now I have to ask you what other species do you know that can do this without parental guidance, Ivy League education and/or Outward Bound Training? The specie I’m familiar with often has its young around home for almost a quarter of its life and the young are still learning how to swim.
Pati kayaks over to the beach and takes a long, and much needed walk and returns to feed the numerous tortugas that call this cove their home. We have learned they love fruit peels of banana and papaya. Late in the afternoon we head in to hike for 3 hours with the 2 women who are volunteer/tourism students and see all the birds except the Albatross. We intend to do another hike the next day but find ourselves drifting. The mooring ball has broken loose, which means it’s a good time to head out. Peru here we come!!!!!
Isla de la Plata (Silver Island) is known as “the poor man’s Galapagos” and is an hour off-shore between Manta and Puerto Lopez, and north of Guayaquil. Once privately owned it is now Parque Nacional Machalilla. It is usual and customary to go to Puerto Lopez and take a tour boat to get there or pay and get a permit to visit. We play ignorant and pull in and pick up the solo mooring ball. This island, much like the Galapagos, is known for blue/red-footed, and masqued boobies, frigates, albatross, and sea lions. We are no longer in equatorial climates as temperature is influenced by the Humboldt current and we bring out the down comforter.. We anchor and sleep well. Next day the park ranger approaches informing us we need a permit. After much disjointed conversation we learn it is the rangers birthday and invite him and 3 volunteers aboard. Needless to say, after many rum punches and appetizers we no longer need the permit and they invite us to visit the island the next day after the day-tours boats have left. As we are lingering on the bow with our drinks and shining a light into the water seeing hundreds of trumpet fish we see little turtles swimming toward the boat. We were present on one of the two nights a year when the sea turtle eggs hatch and all of a sudden we are surrounded by baby sea turtles learning how to swim.
Now picture this. The baby sea turtle, in pitch black darkness, cracks open its shell, figures out which way is up, digs its way to the surface of the sand, figures out which way is the sea and than waddles down to it, and without a second thought, plunks itself into the vastness of the Pacific Ocean, after leaving the warmth and security of its egg. It than must instantly learn how to swim and stick its head above water to breath.
Now I have to ask you what other species do you know that can do this without parental guidance, Ivy League education and/or Outward Bound Training? The specie I’m familiar with often has its young around home for almost a quarter of its life and the young are still learning how to swim.
Pati kayaks over to the beach and takes a long, and much needed walk and returns to feed the numerous tortugas that call this cove their home. We have learned they love fruit peels of banana and papaya. Late in the afternoon we head in to hike for 3 hours with the 2 women who are volunteer/tourism students and see all the birds except the Albatross. We intend to do another hike the next day but find ourselves drifting. The mooring ball has broken loose, which means it’s a good time to head out. Peru here we come!!!!!
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VISITING ECUADOR- JUNE/JULY 2010
QUITO
Marc and I flew back to Quito from the US on June 6 and spent5 days in Quito visiting the old colonial city and its beautiful churches one of which is painted with over 7 tons of gold. We enjoyed traversing the city with its wonderful transit system (buses). Within Quito lies the center of the Universe, as we are at the equator (lat. 00.000 S) Our wonderful concierge from our hotel, Andres, taxied with us to a museum honoring this phenomena (and yes the toilets reverse their flush.and eggs can stand upright on a nail head). OTOVALO
Next day we took a day trip by bus north to Otavalo, known as one of the most important marketplaces in the Andes-a weekly fiesta that celebrates the gods of commerce and where 80-90% of the weaving artistry is still handmade and come from the local villages surrounding the town. We noted in our LONELY PLANET guide book that there was a pie shop here. We stumbled upon it and had the best blueberry and blackberry pies we have had in a long time. After returning to Quito we stowed our extra luggage (many bags from our stateside visit) and set out for Tena.TENA
We bussed to Tena ( southwest of Quito)a day ahead of our scheduled rafting trip so we took a riverboat ride to local indigenous villages where we toured medicinal plants and local animals and did a tube ride off the boat. Stopping at another village we participated in a “chicha” making demonstration (a drink made from ground corn paste and fermented like a beer) used for celebrations, observed local dance and bought local handmade jewelry. Yeah we think the monkeys are real cute, but while sitting on a park bench one feisty guy swooped out of a tree and stole my sunglasses. Luckily a local guy chased him and he dropped them.….The rivers Tena and Pano meet here and whitewater rafters from around the world come here to play. We booked a trip down the class IV Quijos River with “River People”, an English/Irish family operation. Our guide, from Argentina, had also done the American River in California where Pati had her first whitewater experience with “Outdoors Unlimited” at UCSF. After a 40 minute hike down to the river via muddy, treacherous paths (thanks to the powers above that we had porters to carry the rafts) we found the water and thus began to celebrate Marc’s birthday. It was a wonderfully, exhilarating ride.
BANOSBANOS
From Tena we bussed to Banos, a beautiful town right next to the volcano that erupted 2 weeks before we arrived. Marc and I ate in a wonderful Italian restaurant was talking to the restaurant owner about the volcano and data collection and were asked to meet the mayor and key staff. They put us up for free for the next few days to study and make recommendations to the town. After a week and much work we submitted a plan, attempted to incorporate a company and since learned that they will not go forward with it. Much political play between town, university, geological institute, etc. During the last Volcano eruption two years ago we heard the local hotels actually locked clients in the hotel to avoid their leaving before they could check out and pay… Yeah, I would say this town needs some help. The town is deserted of tourists (go figure;) so its very quiet,but we like it that way.We dined at a local natural foods restaurant and viewed the film "Dinner with Andre" as we ate. They have movies once a week- nice touch.We rented bikes and took the Waterfall tour- all downhill, took a gondola across a gorge, Marc hiked up to a falls, we met some local Texans who have built a hotel nearby and
than bused back to Banos. We had 2 wonderful massages with a facial and pedicure for 35 dollars total and dinners for 6 bucks. The thermal hot springs boasting 6 pools are $2. We took a chiva bus to view the volcano up close and personal, with rum of course. So life is good and very reasonable as long as there is no big boom. We bussed back to Quito, collected luggage and than hopped the bus (12 hours) back to Bahia de Caracas and Puerto Amistad (our anchorage)
BAHIA De CARACAS, CANOA- coastal Ecuador
Marc so enjoyed his beach time during his Vipassana retreat in Canoa that we decided to spend 10 days there. The hotel/family compound is owned and operated by Greg and Ann. Greg is a paragliding professional who started his trek from Kentucky 7 years ago and Canoa (the beach town) is known globally for the best winds for paragliding. So here he stopped, instructed and bought property. We enjoyed the many families that are renting his apartments- Henry the ex-fireman from California who has brought his family here to live for 5 years, Noe the professor and writer from Amherst, Mass. who likewise has her family here for a year and is building a house. For $10/day we had a room with a view of the ocean and wonderful gourmet food. We enjoyed communal dinners and Pati had some wonderful beach time to relax after her stateside journey. If you want to come to Ecuador we highly recommend a visit here. Can’t have play time without boat projects. Marc and helpers tied off Alphawave next to an unused ferryboat, waited for the tide to go out and than replaced the transducer and cleaned the zincs. We met other boaters here that are heading to Peru so we exchanged contact info and began to head south toward Peru.  |
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Saturday, October 9, 2010
DARIEN RIVER, PANAMA - March/April 2010
The waters that have been a lucid green now begin take on a murky olive to tan as we get closer to the mouth of the river. A local fishing boat hails us and we buy a very large Corvina (sea bass) for $8 and a box of orange juice- ceviche tonight.
Not many sailors take this trek up the rivers that empty into the Gulf of San Miguel. We did a sleigh ride on an incoming tide @ 9 knots and anchored for 2 nights off the village of Las Palmas before exploring 3 large rivers in the area – the Rios Cucunati, Sabana, and Truira. Motoring up the Rio Truira at an incoming tide on Good Friday we crossed paths with three identical motor boats carrying casks and manned by soldiers in camouflage suits with no identifying labels. They look extremely surprised to see us. Pati and I immediately went into “dumb gringo” mode and waved as we go pass them. You could see they were trying to figure out what to do but since they were going down river on a fast moving current they stayed their course and we breathed a sigh of relief. No doubt they were members of the FARC, drug running guerillas from Columbia using the river to smuggle their drugs on a day when no one (except us) was using the river.
We followed a supply boat and managed to anchor and take the dinghy up to the end of the river to the town of Yaviza, which is at the end of the Pan American Highway. Here we obtained gas, some veggies and walked , a real “turn of the century” western type town. The river was very shoaled and on our return trip we got caught in the mud and had to push the dinghy. Upon returning to the boat our chain was covered with branches and small trees. Next day up the Rio Sabana we visited Boca de Lara, a community of Wounaan and Embera indigenous Indians (famously known for exquisite basket weaving, sculpting of Tagua and body tattoos) took a tour of the local school and met a French family of father and two children who were visiting.
Anchored in the Rio Cucunati we were visited by a local ‘wildlife’ boat and a local family who brought their family pets aboard (two parrots in a basket) and traded us shrimp for boat goodies (cookies, cokes) and toured our boat. We went ashore and visited their home a small and simple house with minimal possessions. But their smiles and happy dispositions made up for any lack of material goods.
After exploring for 5 days and avoiding the silted in banks and high tides we started our journey toward Ecuador. SEE OUR JOURNEY BELOW
The waters that have been a lucid green now begin take on a murky olive to tan as we get closer to the mouth of the river. A local fishing boat hails us and we buy a very large Corvina (sea bass) for $8 and a box of orange juice- ceviche tonight.
Not many sailors take this trek up the rivers that empty into the Gulf of San Miguel. We did a sleigh ride on an incoming tide @ 9 knots and anchored for 2 nights off the village of Las Palmas before exploring 3 large rivers in the area – the Rios Cucunati, Sabana, and Truira. Motoring up the Rio Truira at an incoming tide on Good Friday we crossed paths with three identical motor boats carrying casks and manned by soldiers in camouflage suits with no identifying labels. They look extremely surprised to see us. Pati and I immediately went into “dumb gringo” mode and waved as we go pass them. You could see they were trying to figure out what to do but since they were going down river on a fast moving current they stayed their course and we breathed a sigh of relief. No doubt they were members of the FARC, drug running guerillas from Columbia using the river to smuggle their drugs on a day when no one (except us) was using the river.
We followed a supply boat and managed to anchor and take the dinghy up to the end of the river to the town of Yaviza, which is at the end of the Pan American Highway. Here we obtained gas, some veggies and walked , a real “turn of the century” western type town. The river was very shoaled and on our return trip we got caught in the mud and had to push the dinghy. Upon returning to the boat our chain was covered with branches and small trees. Next day up the Rio Sabana we visited Boca de Lara, a community of Wounaan and Embera indigenous Indians (famously known for exquisite basket weaving, sculpting of Tagua and body tattoos) took a tour of the local school and met a French family of father and two children who were visiting.
Anchored in the Rio Cucunati we were visited by a local ‘wildlife’ boat and a local family who brought their family pets aboard (two parrots in a basket) and traded us shrimp for boat goodies (cookies, cokes) and toured our boat. We went ashore and visited their home a small and simple house with minimal possessions. But their smiles and happy dispositions made up for any lack of material goods.
After exploring for 5 days and avoiding the silted in banks and high tides we started our journey toward Ecuador. SEE OUR JOURNEY BELOW
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Hello to all of our friends and family. Last update was January 2010, for which I am truly sorry. It is now October 2010 and we are anchored in Callao, Peru the seacoast of Lima.
In March, we crossed the Panama Canal from the east to the Pacific side-the first time AlphaWave has had her hull in Pacific waters. We had no tidal changes on the east side and now have to deal with 10' tides.
Visiting Las Perlas, Islands on the Pacific side of Panama- March/April
We finally left all semblance of marina life and headed to Tobago, Island of Flowers, 7 miles off-shore from the Panama Canal. It was the first port in Panama, rampaged and burned by Henry Morgan (as were many places in Caribbean and So. America). It is said that JFK was here, as PT Boats were stationed around the canal. I have since learned that my father was here as well during his Navy years on a PT boat. We hiked to the top of the town with beautiful vistas of the harbor below. Had a delightful dinner off the square of Corvina (sea bass) and garlic shrimp.
Isla Gibraleon and Isla Casaya, the isles where pearls are harvested. Went ashore to try to purchase pearls, but most pearls are sent to Panama City; what remains is very small or non-existent. Found beautiful shells. Pearls take on the color inside the shell. Deep inside the shell is multi-colored. The pearls draw their color from placement within the shell.white. The largest pearl ever found was harvested here, the 31 carat “Peregrina” pearl worn by English Queen Mary Tudor, now owned by Elizabeth Taylor. The Spaniards killed off all the Indigenous Indians here and had to import slaves from Africa to harvest the shells- hence the African look of present inhabitants.
Isla Pedro Gonzales A private Greek- owned island that has a village of 450 settlers. The island is currently under development for wealthy homeowners (i.e.: Shakira, etal). (NAMED PEARL ISLAND RESORT, GO FIGURE) With the major digging they have unearthed many artifacts, grave sites, and found some gold. We met a lovely Argentinean archaeologist who represents the Smithsonian and is digging the site. She hiked us to petrogliths and gave us some history of the 6000 year old site which she said was the oldest in the Pacific Basin! I picked up geodes that have since been given to Ben, Peter and Jayda and large pearl shells that have been shared with daughters. Swimming here was not good because it is jellyfish season.(blah
Isla de San Jose
Another privately-owned island with beautiful beaches at low tides. After cruising on the eastern side of Panama for over a year we got used to 1’ tides, now we have to deal with 20’ ranges- makes for new challenges. Shortly after anchoring here we are traipsing around the boat in our birthday suits and lo and behold a mega-cruiser motors up and drops his hook right next to us. Marc is livid. Only once has this happened before-in the Florida Keys- we are the only boat around for miles and a boat anchors right next to us-go figure. We overnight there with his bright lights abeam us, hike and dinghy around exploring caves than decide to move on. Just as we are pulling anchor the “mega-cruiser” is putting his dinghy in the hold and is pulling out too. What gives with this guy? So we are heading out and an alarm goes off-our engine fan belt just gave it up. So, underway to our next anchorage, Marc is in the hole fixing it. We sail (good wind) for 3 hours and pull into our next stop-Isla Del Rey (king island).
Isla Del Rey
We make our way to the Bahia San Telmo (bay) at the most southern tip of the largest of Las Perlas islands and anchor in Punta De Cocos. This is our jumping off point to head to the Darien River. We spend a night here expecting to chill and swim before crossing but the jelly fish are too numerous-so a good night sleep and at sunrise we pull anchor.
In March, we crossed the Panama Canal from the east to the Pacific side-the first time AlphaWave has had her hull in Pacific waters. We had no tidal changes on the east side and now have to deal with 10' tides.
Visiting Las Perlas, Islands on the Pacific side of Panama- March/April
We finally left all semblance of marina life and headed to Tobago, Island of Flowers, 7 miles off-shore from the Panama Canal. It was the first port in Panama, rampaged and burned by Henry Morgan (as were many places in Caribbean and So. America). It is said that JFK was here, as PT Boats were stationed around the canal. I have since learned that my father was here as well during his Navy years on a PT boat. We hiked to the top of the town with beautiful vistas of the harbor below. Had a delightful dinner off the square of Corvina (sea bass) and garlic shrimp.
Isla Gibraleon and Isla Casaya, the isles where pearls are harvested. Went ashore to try to purchase pearls, but most pearls are sent to Panama City; what remains is very small or non-existent. Found beautiful shells. Pearls take on the color inside the shell. Deep inside the shell is multi-colored. The pearls draw their color from placement within the shell.white. The largest pearl ever found was harvested here, the 31 carat “Peregrina” pearl worn by English Queen Mary Tudor, now owned by Elizabeth Taylor. The Spaniards killed off all the Indigenous Indians here and had to import slaves from Africa to harvest the shells- hence the African look of present inhabitants.
Isla Pedro Gonzales A private Greek- owned island that has a village of 450 settlers. The island is currently under development for wealthy homeowners (i.e.: Shakira, etal). (NAMED PEARL ISLAND RESORT, GO FIGURE) With the major digging they have unearthed many artifacts, grave sites, and found some gold. We met a lovely Argentinean archaeologist who represents the Smithsonian and is digging the site. She hiked us to petrogliths and gave us some history of the 6000 year old site which she said was the oldest in the Pacific Basin! I picked up geodes that have since been given to Ben, Peter and Jayda and large pearl shells that have been shared with daughters. Swimming here was not good because it is jellyfish season.(blah
Isla de San Jose
Another privately-owned island with beautiful beaches at low tides. After cruising on the eastern side of Panama for over a year we got used to 1’ tides, now we have to deal with 20’ ranges- makes for new challenges. Shortly after anchoring here we are traipsing around the boat in our birthday suits and lo and behold a mega-cruiser motors up and drops his hook right next to us. Marc is livid. Only once has this happened before-in the Florida Keys- we are the only boat around for miles and a boat anchors right next to us-go figure. We overnight there with his bright lights abeam us, hike and dinghy around exploring caves than decide to move on. Just as we are pulling anchor the “mega-cruiser” is putting his dinghy in the hold and is pulling out too. What gives with this guy? So we are heading out and an alarm goes off-our engine fan belt just gave it up. So, underway to our next anchorage, Marc is in the hole fixing it. We sail (good wind) for 3 hours and pull into our next stop-Isla Del Rey (king island).
Isla Del Rey
We make our way to the Bahia San Telmo (bay) at the most southern tip of the largest of Las Perlas islands and anchor in Punta De Cocos. This is our jumping off point to head to the Darien River. We spend a night here expecting to chill and swim before crossing but the jelly fish are too numerous-so a good night sleep and at sunrise we pull anchor.
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Monday, December 28, 2009
HAPPY HOLIDAYS FROM MARC & PATI ABOARD S/V ALPHAWAVE
A hello to all and many wishes for a holiday seaon filled with family and friends, good times and serenity. We are presently in Cartagena, Colombia SA. On our return from the states after Thanksgiving we rented a car in Bogota and toured the interior of this wonderful country, as we try to do in all countries we visit by sea (we have done inland tours of Nassau, Jamaica, Belize, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, El Salvador, and now Colombia.) When we cross the Panama Canal in February we will be heading to Ecuador, Peru, Chile and than thru the "Straits of Magellan"at the southern tip of SA. The sailing to the beautiful Islands is wonderful and we do lots of Snorkeling, Scuba, eating of fish, lobster, crab, etc) and have peace after visits inland, but it is the people of a culture that truly colors the locale for us.
Many journeys and events have happened over the course of this past year. In November of last year we left the Rio Dulce in Guatemala and headed to the Bay of Islands, Honduras (Roatan, Utila and Guanaja) spending 3 months there. As Virginia was expected to join us in Panama in March, we headed toward the Panama Canal with intermittent stops at the Colombian Islands of Providencia and San Andreas. She has chartered us for the past 2 years and as she is graduating from College this year she will probably not join us again for awhile.
After many repairs and services to the boat ( it is endless and we recently met a boat named FIA-fix it again) we left Shelter Bay Marina and toured the Chagras River (damned to create the canal) and than headed to Bocas del Torro in NE Panama near the Costa Rican border. Met up with some friends who have become "life-long" buddies, Gil and Kathy aboard Endorfin.
Back to the Canal and than on to KUNA YALA COMARCA- The San Blas Islands and home of the indigenous Kuna Indians. We spent 2 1/2 months traversering the area of over 300 Islands, were invited to many islands by the natives, and celebrated via a Chicha festival (the coming of age of young women). Marc is in processs of working with people there to bring internet services to the islands and raise money to fund uniforms, books and shoes to the children, while providing a service to boaters.
Back to Canal and Marina to fly to states. In august, my daughter Julia and Husband Eric celebrated their wedding in NH which had occured in January on a cruise to Belize (unbeknownst to us all). It was a wonderful celebration and my daughter, Daneka and husband, Ari and grandson, Ben flew from Israel to join us. Family also flew in From Indiana.
What would a trip to the states be without visiting all the family. We flew to N. Carolina to celebrate Marc's parents birthdays (mike and dot are 91 and 92 respectively). Marc's daughter, Nikki and his sister, Diane and husband, Ned were wonderful additions to the celebration. Nikki had recently returned from her cross country journey to California and was searching for a job to replenish the kitty and get on with her career. She had previously beeen a middle school teacher and is now teaching again and working on a master's degree.
We returned to Panama and headed again to the San Blas Islands for 3 weeks before heading to Cartagena. Once again we left the boat to return to the states for my nieces wedding in Indiana in November.
Upon on our return we toured inland Colombia, via rented car and Marc got his "indy 500" /nascar fix. He loves driving in third world countries with the trucks and curving mountain roads. It all began when he travelled from Germany to Afghanistan in his VW camper bus when he was 20. I, on the other hand, grip the seat and try to read. I completed the book, "Why Men Don't Listen and Women Can't Read Maps ( I was the navigator) a borrow from my dear Sister- in- law, Ann.
The trip was wonderful (car ride aside). We spent 3 days in Bogota -crowded like most big cities but unique with Spanish Colonial history and wonderful museums (gold, Botero) and we visited many small towns and villages as we headed to Medellin (know throughout the country for its wonderful display of lights during the holidays). We spent 1 day in Santa Rosa de Cabal where there are hotsprings and enjoyed 4 hours of being pampered with dirt piling, mud bath, frutotherapy, oatmeal/honey rub and culminating in a 1 hour massage. Eat your heart out everyone it costs us $40 each. We have met some wonderful people who have befriended us and even have either led us to places we could not find or travelled with us to get somewhere. And we have made business contacts for the ventures that we are involved in. We believe we have sourced organic herbs and found a pharmaceutical company to formulate and bottle our products.
One of my highlights was finding the "Tagua" factory I had found online. Tagua is a palm that produces a seed that becomes hardened (similar to coconut milk that becomes a gel, than hardens) but it becomes so hard upon drying that it was used during WW2 to produce buttons for military uniforms all over the world- it is called Vegetable Ivory. It is still used for buttons, but is mostly used to produce jewelry, sculture and whatever else an artist can produce. The owner, Elain Misrachi, gave us tour of the factory and I saw first-hand how they process the seeds. Of course I bought many of theirs, but I have many that I found while hiking and will try to replicate the process.
We happened to be in Bogota at the time the "Annual Artisans Expo" was scheduled and had the opportunity to see products from all over the country both indigenous and modern artists were represented. Much creativity and time are invested as all products are hand made or assembled.
We are now back in Cartagena with fellow boaters and our plate has been full. We have enjoyed dance performances (my favorite of course) traditional and modern. We just attended a performance that was a collaboration with the Univ. of Texas, Austin, and a local College. What a great cultural exchange and the dancing will be performed in Texas in March. We went to a Christmas Ball (no black tie but sandals and colorful shirts with dinner and dancing), a Chiva bus tour (many gringos travelling around the old town on a very colorful bus with musicians (marc brought his drums) and lots of rum stopping to dance at the ocean and on the walls of the old city. There is volleyball 3 times per week, we walk at 6 am before it gets hot (think 86 degrees with 90% humidity) and on Christmas day there will be a huge christmas dinner (pot luck). So we will be among friends.
Marc is organizing an event for New Years called "Saillights Cartagena 2009" that is a showing of lights on sailboats throughout the anchorage and marina. Children from the local Barrios (think very poor) will be brought onto the boats and given a gift. We had a traditiion of taking children from a foster home onto the boat at christmas time in NH, so the tradition continues. A light show will follow with boats flashing their assigned colored lights to music. I will be placing Lumieres down the waterfront.
I look forward to the coming year when I will fly to Israel for the birth of my granddaughter, and to NH for the college graduations of Julia and Virginia. Marc may go back to Thailand for a Buddhist retreat update. And of course there is our Canal crossing and a new journey to follow on the Pacific side of South America (Ecuador, Peru, Chile).
As our families have grown it is difficult to come together withh our children on the traditional holidays-Daneka,Ari and Ben in Israel, Virginia in Indiana, Julia,Eric, Peter and Jada in NH, and Nikki in NH. It is the family that we will miss the most. We will think of all of you as we celebrate in a very untraditional way with a community of friends and in a place we call our home for now.
Much love to you all
Happy Hanakah, Merry Christmas, Feliz Navidad, Happy New Year
Let there be peace among us for we all are one.
Pati and Marc
aboard S/V AlphaWave
Many journeys and events have happened over the course of this past year. In November of last year we left the Rio Dulce in Guatemala and headed to the Bay of Islands, Honduras (Roatan, Utila and Guanaja) spending 3 months there. As Virginia was expected to join us in Panama in March, we headed toward the Panama Canal with intermittent stops at the Colombian Islands of Providencia and San Andreas. She has chartered us for the past 2 years and as she is graduating from College this year she will probably not join us again for awhile.
After many repairs and services to the boat ( it is endless and we recently met a boat named FIA-fix it again) we left Shelter Bay Marina and toured the Chagras River (damned to create the canal) and than headed to Bocas del Torro in NE Panama near the Costa Rican border. Met up with some friends who have become "life-long" buddies, Gil and Kathy aboard Endorfin.
Back to the Canal and than on to KUNA YALA COMARCA- The San Blas Islands and home of the indigenous Kuna Indians. We spent 2 1/2 months traversering the area of over 300 Islands, were invited to many islands by the natives, and celebrated via a Chicha festival (the coming of age of young women). Marc is in processs of working with people there to bring internet services to the islands and raise money to fund uniforms, books and shoes to the children, while providing a service to boaters.
Back to Canal and Marina to fly to states. In august, my daughter Julia and Husband Eric celebrated their wedding in NH which had occured in January on a cruise to Belize (unbeknownst to us all). It was a wonderful celebration and my daughter, Daneka and husband, Ari and grandson, Ben flew from Israel to join us. Family also flew in From Indiana.
What would a trip to the states be without visiting all the family. We flew to N. Carolina to celebrate Marc's parents birthdays (mike and dot are 91 and 92 respectively). Marc's daughter, Nikki and his sister, Diane and husband, Ned were wonderful additions to the celebration. Nikki had recently returned from her cross country journey to California and was searching for a job to replenish the kitty and get on with her career. She had previously beeen a middle school teacher and is now teaching again and working on a master's degree.
We returned to Panama and headed again to the San Blas Islands for 3 weeks before heading to Cartagena. Once again we left the boat to return to the states for my nieces wedding in Indiana in November.
Upon on our return we toured inland Colombia, via rented car and Marc got his "indy 500" /nascar fix. He loves driving in third world countries with the trucks and curving mountain roads. It all began when he travelled from Germany to Afghanistan in his VW camper bus when he was 20. I, on the other hand, grip the seat and try to read. I completed the book, "Why Men Don't Listen and Women Can't Read Maps ( I was the navigator) a borrow from my dear Sister- in- law, Ann.
The trip was wonderful (car ride aside). We spent 3 days in Bogota -crowded like most big cities but unique with Spanish Colonial history and wonderful museums (gold, Botero) and we visited many small towns and villages as we headed to Medellin (know throughout the country for its wonderful display of lights during the holidays). We spent 1 day in Santa Rosa de Cabal where there are hotsprings and enjoyed 4 hours of being pampered with dirt piling, mud bath, frutotherapy, oatmeal/honey rub and culminating in a 1 hour massage. Eat your heart out everyone it costs us $40 each. We have met some wonderful people who have befriended us and even have either led us to places we could not find or travelled with us to get somewhere. And we have made business contacts for the ventures that we are involved in. We believe we have sourced organic herbs and found a pharmaceutical company to formulate and bottle our products.
One of my highlights was finding the "Tagua" factory I had found online. Tagua is a palm that produces a seed that becomes hardened (similar to coconut milk that becomes a gel, than hardens) but it becomes so hard upon drying that it was used during WW2 to produce buttons for military uniforms all over the world- it is called Vegetable Ivory. It is still used for buttons, but is mostly used to produce jewelry, sculture and whatever else an artist can produce. The owner, Elain Misrachi, gave us tour of the factory and I saw first-hand how they process the seeds. Of course I bought many of theirs, but I have many that I found while hiking and will try to replicate the process.
We happened to be in Bogota at the time the "Annual Artisans Expo" was scheduled and had the opportunity to see products from all over the country both indigenous and modern artists were represented. Much creativity and time are invested as all products are hand made or assembled.
We are now back in Cartagena with fellow boaters and our plate has been full. We have enjoyed dance performances (my favorite of course) traditional and modern. We just attended a performance that was a collaboration with the Univ. of Texas, Austin, and a local College. What a great cultural exchange and the dancing will be performed in Texas in March. We went to a Christmas Ball (no black tie but sandals and colorful shirts with dinner and dancing), a Chiva bus tour (many gringos travelling around the old town on a very colorful bus with musicians (marc brought his drums) and lots of rum stopping to dance at the ocean and on the walls of the old city. There is volleyball 3 times per week, we walk at 6 am before it gets hot (think 86 degrees with 90% humidity) and on Christmas day there will be a huge christmas dinner (pot luck). So we will be among friends.
Marc is organizing an event for New Years called "Saillights Cartagena 2009" that is a showing of lights on sailboats throughout the anchorage and marina. Children from the local Barrios (think very poor) will be brought onto the boats and given a gift. We had a traditiion of taking children from a foster home onto the boat at christmas time in NH, so the tradition continues. A light show will follow with boats flashing their assigned colored lights to music. I will be placing Lumieres down the waterfront.
I look forward to the coming year when I will fly to Israel for the birth of my granddaughter, and to NH for the college graduations of Julia and Virginia. Marc may go back to Thailand for a Buddhist retreat update. And of course there is our Canal crossing and a new journey to follow on the Pacific side of South America (Ecuador, Peru, Chile).
As our families have grown it is difficult to come together withh our children on the traditional holidays-Daneka,Ari and Ben in Israel, Virginia in Indiana, Julia,Eric, Peter and Jada in NH, and Nikki in NH. It is the family that we will miss the most. We will think of all of you as we celebrate in a very untraditional way with a community of friends and in a place we call our home for now.
Much love to you all
Happy Hanakah, Merry Christmas, Feliz Navidad, Happy New Year
Let there be peace among us for we all are one.
Pati and Marc
aboard S/V AlphaWave
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Saturday, March 29, 2008
JOURNEY ROUND
St. Augustine to Palm Beach (2/13/08-3/12/08)
It is hard to believe that we are still in the ''states", USA that is. Having returned from NH in January we were docked at Camachee cove in St. Augustine until Feb. 10 where Updates/repairs (surprise, surprise) were done on the boat---lots of new wiring, new line bags, new pumps, generators, additional solar panels, etc, etc, etc,.... Our goal is to be as sustainable as possible. A great crew of mechanics, sail makers, electricians traversed the boat daily. I became the gopher running for much needed supplies. I did design the new bags that store our lines and fit snugly into our bike racks ( which we found at a marine flea market and had installed). While there I kept sane by visiting local farmer's markets for fresh veggies, took some Zumba dance classes and Yoga. We also went to a wonderful "Richie Havens" concert. I had not seen him since the early 80's (whoops, times does fly) and Marc had actually met him in 1968. We regularly went to a local "Tasting Room" restaurant and enjoyed tapas, great Spanish wine and Cuban music/ dancing.) Also went to a local Blues Fest and Marc ran into an old U of Penn alumnae who was a fellow fraternity member.
It is hard to believe that we are still in the ''states", USA that is. Having returned from NH in January we were docked at Camachee cove in St. Augustine until Feb. 10 where Updates/repairs (surprise, surprise) were done on the boat---lots of new wiring, new line bags, new pumps, generators, additional solar panels, etc, etc, etc,.... Our goal is to be as sustainable as possible. A great crew of mechanics, sail makers, electricians traversed the boat daily. I became the gopher running for much needed supplies. I did design the new bags that store our lines and fit snugly into our bike racks ( which we found at a marine flea market and had installed). While there I kept sane by visiting local farmer's markets for fresh veggies, took some Zumba dance classes and Yoga. We also went to a wonderful "Richie Havens" concert. I had not seen him since the early 80's (whoops, times does fly) and Marc had actually met him in 1968. We regularly went to a local "Tasting Room" restaurant and enjoyed tapas, great Spanish wine and Cuban music/ dancing.) Also went to a local Blues Fest and Marc ran into an old U of Penn alumnae who was a fellow fraternity member.
We left Camachee Cove and traveled up into the river of ST. Aug. to have fiberglass work done on the boat. Capo and Son, Byron and his dad provided concierge service for whatever Marc needed- reworked the anchorage plate, installed new hydraulics on salon table. A real working class dockage with shrimping boats docked beside us. We of course secured mucho shrimp for future dining. A boat captain left us crab cakes. Needless to say, they were probably a "thank you" gift. The night before, Marc ended up pulling a drunken crew member out of water. He had unfortunately fallen off of the dock and was swimming/treading? toward our boat and calling out unintelligible words.Unfortunately, we had just watched the movie, "Dead Calm" with Nicole Kidman about a couple on a sailboat who picked up a "psycho". Use your imagination!!!!! 5 days later we were on our way once again.
Byron Capo with Marc
Our course------ Palm beach to meet a technician to work on the water maker. WE have since gone from 6 to 12 gallons an hour. Whenever we are docked and waiting for deliveries of products (pumps, paper, security dog barking speakers,) we ascertain what else needs to be done and try to get it done or purchased now since products will be hard to find in So. America.
(views from Alpha @ Riviera Beach, Fl) A place we hope never to visit again.
The Unbelievable Day.
Today is Thursday. We were all set to take off Tuesday. Boat was stowed, all systems checked, double checked, much money spent to get new “everything” from pumps to generators to heaters to water makers, etc, etc, etc…… The weather turned to a North Wind preventing us from crossing the stream on schedule, preventing us from meeting Virginia in Jamaica. As Marc was on the phone completing the new airline arrangements to re-route Virginia to Nassau, a major confrontation (aka known as a T-bone) occurred between Alpha Wave and a submarine. Now don’t get excited we did not sink. A submarine to be used for tourism in Antigua, recently purchased by a young Canadian, and shipped from Greece and is to travel via barge from Ft. Lauderdale to Antigua. This Marina, this dock , of all in the world was the testing ground for the sub. A recently hired captain could not control an underpowered 3 ton vessel.
A T-bone, by the way is like it sounds. A boat hits you across the beam. So now we are dealing with having the boat hauled to determine any possible internal damage. Superficially, it looks like the fiberglass was just scratched and gouged, but we have to check it out.
The Mean Sub checking out its prey! (us) Yeah the whole damn thing actually goes 100” below the water…it looks like an over weight shark ..can you hear the Jaws theme song? It is coming at us!
Above is the pic of the Sub taken about an hour before the accident occurred. Imagine those two bullet-like projectiles, one of which connected with Alpha wave. I was literally standing on deck as it was coming toward us and the “crunch” sound traveled through my whole being to the point of being all shook up-literally trembling as I saw all the hard work we have done seep out of me. Talk about helpless----
Tomorrow is another day. The boat will be hauled and we will know where to go from there. I was all ready to send photos of this wonderful sub, which we toured the day before with a wonderful engineer from Martinique. I think I will let is pass for now.
The Unbelievable Day.
Today is Thursday. We were all set to take off Tuesday. Boat was stowed, all systems checked, double checked, much money spent to get new “everything” from pumps to generators to heaters to water makers, etc, etc, etc…… The weather turned to a North Wind preventing us from crossing the stream on schedule, preventing us from meeting Virginia in Jamaica. As Marc was on the phone completing the new airline arrangements to re-route Virginia to Nassau, a major confrontation (aka known as a T-bone) occurred between Alpha Wave and a submarine. Now don’t get excited we did not sink. A submarine to be used for tourism in Antigua, recently purchased by a young Canadian, and shipped from Greece and is to travel via barge from Ft. Lauderdale to Antigua. This Marina, this dock , of all in the world was the testing ground for the sub. A recently hired captain could not control an underpowered 3 ton vessel.
A T-bone, by the way is like it sounds. A boat hits you across the beam. So now we are dealing with having the boat hauled to determine any possible internal damage. Superficially, it looks like the fiberglass was just scratched and gouged, but we have to check it out.
The Mean Sub checking out its prey! (us) Yeah the whole damn thing actually goes 100” below the water…it looks like an over weight shark ..can you hear the Jaws theme song? It is coming at us!
Above is the pic of the Sub taken about an hour before the accident occurred. Imagine those two bullet-like projectiles, one of which connected with Alpha wave. I was literally standing on deck as it was coming toward us and the “crunch” sound traveled through my whole being to the point of being all shook up-literally trembling as I saw all the hard work we have done seep out of me. Talk about helpless----
Tomorrow is another day. The boat will be hauled and we will know where to go from there. I was all ready to send photos of this wonderful sub, which we toured the day before with a wonderful engineer from Martinique. I think I will let is pass for now.
Pati
2/29/08
THE FIASCO CONTINUES
The boat was hauled, checked out and, with the exception of minor fiberglass damage, was given an okay by the surveyor. We decided to forego fiberglass repair because it would take 2-3 days, rain was coming and we needed to meet Virginia in Nassau. So the boat was put back in the water. As soon as we got aboard and started to head back to the dock we heard major noise, and vibrations. It seems that when the boat was hauled they briefly lifted the weight of the boat on the shaft causing it to bend. Before finding the right lift points and doing it properly. Being the responsibility of the “YARD” they have tried to correct the problem.
2/29/08
THE FIASCO CONTINUES
The boat was hauled, checked out and, with the exception of minor fiberglass damage, was given an okay by the surveyor. We decided to forego fiberglass repair because it would take 2-3 days, rain was coming and we needed to meet Virginia in Nassau. So the boat was put back in the water. As soon as we got aboard and started to head back to the dock we heard major noise, and vibrations. It seems that when the boat was hauled they briefly lifted the weight of the boat on the shaft causing it to bend. Before finding the right lift points and doing it properly. Being the responsibility of the “YARD” they have tried to correct the problem.
AlphaWave Being Hauled…again! our“Tree House” Not quite like Thailand however
Thinking the problem corrected, we put the boat back in the water and gave it a test drive.
Vibrations still exist. Mechanics back on board to trouble shoot. We take another test drive. Vibrations still not corrected. We just got hauled again. It is now 1 week from the first hauling.
AND WE WAIT AGAIN
I have never felt more like a prisoner in my life. Held here for almost two weeks because a sub hit us- living on the boat in a boat yard, climbing a 10 foot ladder to get up and down the boat, trekking ½ block to use facilities. Lack of responsibility between boat mechanics and boat yard management feeling rushed to get things done. And the people
Never smile. Our boat as Marc said is a “tree house” but we are careful not to use the heads and to only take showers during rain storms.
Out of all this our dear mechanic CHRIS, we are thankful for. He was aboard when the sub hit, took a trial sail after the shaft work was done and became 3rd party eyes and ears giving feedback and overseeing the work that could potentially have become very political.
I guess this whole set of circumstances could be metaphorically like eating sauerkraut on New Year’s eve- starting the new year with a bitter taste so the coming year will only be sweeter. (an old German ritual). We look forward to the “sweet” and hope we can sail soon.
Peter turned 3 on March 2, and Ben is now 6 mos.old. I think Peter will be old enough to sail with us next year.
Thinking the problem corrected, we put the boat back in the water and gave it a test drive.
Vibrations still exist. Mechanics back on board to trouble shoot. We take another test drive. Vibrations still not corrected. We just got hauled again. It is now 1 week from the first hauling.
AND WE WAIT AGAIN
I have never felt more like a prisoner in my life. Held here for almost two weeks because a sub hit us- living on the boat in a boat yard, climbing a 10 foot ladder to get up and down the boat, trekking ½ block to use facilities. Lack of responsibility between boat mechanics and boat yard management feeling rushed to get things done. And the people
Never smile. Our boat as Marc said is a “tree house” but we are careful not to use the heads and to only take showers during rain storms.
Out of all this our dear mechanic CHRIS, we are thankful for. He was aboard when the sub hit, took a trial sail after the shaft work was done and became 3rd party eyes and ears giving feedback and overseeing the work that could potentially have become very political.
I guess this whole set of circumstances could be metaphorically like eating sauerkraut on New Year’s eve- starting the new year with a bitter taste so the coming year will only be sweeter. (an old German ritual). We look forward to the “sweet” and hope we can sail soon.
Peter turned 3 on March 2, and Ben is now 6 mos.old. I think Peter will be old enough to sail with us next year.
PETER BEN
3/14-3/24 NASSAU, BAHAMAS, EXUMAS
ON OUR WAY TO NASSAU
We have 2 days to get to Nassau to pick up Virginia at the airport. We made an overnight crossing of the “Steam” which was relatively calm and we sailed most of the way. We docked in an anchorage off the Berry Islands. Lo and behold the devil was still with us. We heard yelling/babbling sounds coming from the beach. A man was tossing and turning while 2 others were trying to calm him. To no avail- they literally had to take him out and dunk him in the waves. We thought they were drowning him. Maybe the devil was in him and he needed to be baptized or something.
Marc and I decided to have a cleansing ritual- taking anything off the boat that wreaked of West Palm/Riviera Beach and burning and letting fly off into the night any papers as well.
ARRIVING IN NASSAU
Nassau Harbor is very choppy. We put in at the Bayshore Marina. First attempt did not go well- waves pushing us into the dock and another boat. We abort and go around to a more acceptable spot. In any condition it is hard to dock here. Mediterranean style docking of two pilings at our stern and one-sided docks combined with chop and lots of speed boats. All secured, we head out to our favorite local “conch salad” stand and enjoy fresh fish and are treated by a local Bahamian who works for Bahamian Cable to Kalik beer. We will pick Virginia up tomorrow and than head out to the Exumas.
After waiting for an hour after the scheduled arrival time, Virginia comes out. They have lost the bags of the 2 people who traveled from Boston. Our intent was to sail immediately to the Exumas. So now we wait, once again. Her bag will be delivered by 8:30 pm on this evening- she arrived @ 1:00 pm. We are, after all, on Bahamian time.
TO THE EXUMAS!
We had a wonderful 3 days in the Exumas. Revisiting places Marc and I had been and sharing them with Virginia. Shelling on deserted beaches, snorkeling, sharing the beach with Iguanas at Allen’s Cay, making jewelry from found shells, wonderful uninterrupted conversations to catch up on Virginia’s life. Than back to Nassau to see the city life.
3/14-3/24 NASSAU, BAHAMAS, EXUMAS
ON OUR WAY TO NASSAU
We have 2 days to get to Nassau to pick up Virginia at the airport. We made an overnight crossing of the “Steam” which was relatively calm and we sailed most of the way. We docked in an anchorage off the Berry Islands. Lo and behold the devil was still with us. We heard yelling/babbling sounds coming from the beach. A man was tossing and turning while 2 others were trying to calm him. To no avail- they literally had to take him out and dunk him in the waves. We thought they were drowning him. Maybe the devil was in him and he needed to be baptized or something.
Marc and I decided to have a cleansing ritual- taking anything off the boat that wreaked of West Palm/Riviera Beach and burning and letting fly off into the night any papers as well.
ARRIVING IN NASSAU
Nassau Harbor is very choppy. We put in at the Bayshore Marina. First attempt did not go well- waves pushing us into the dock and another boat. We abort and go around to a more acceptable spot. In any condition it is hard to dock here. Mediterranean style docking of two pilings at our stern and one-sided docks combined with chop and lots of speed boats. All secured, we head out to our favorite local “conch salad” stand and enjoy fresh fish and are treated by a local Bahamian who works for Bahamian Cable to Kalik beer. We will pick Virginia up tomorrow and than head out to the Exumas.
After waiting for an hour after the scheduled arrival time, Virginia comes out. They have lost the bags of the 2 people who traveled from Boston. Our intent was to sail immediately to the Exumas. So now we wait, once again. Her bag will be delivered by 8:30 pm on this evening- she arrived @ 1:00 pm. We are, after all, on Bahamian time.
TO THE EXUMAS!
We had a wonderful 3 days in the Exumas. Revisiting places Marc and I had been and sharing them with Virginia. Shelling on deserted beaches, snorkeling, sharing the beach with Iguanas at Allen’s Cay, making jewelry from found shells, wonderful uninterrupted conversations to catch up on Virginia’s life. Than back to Nassau to see the city life.
Nassau On the Beach in the Exumas…Shroud Cay
We anchored off of Paradise Island, renowned for the “Atlantis Resort” and were in front of the actor, Nicholas Gage’s estate. A beautiful lot next to his (the Bahamian style building of historical significance had been torn down in preparation for condo’s that did not happen-what a waste) provided a walkway to a magnificent beach.. Lo and behold we asked a woman to take our picture and she was from Hampton, NH. (Jerry Sorelli)-unbelievable. She and hubby own a house down the beach from Atlantis. The people here are great-kind, considerate, very helpful and smart. Just read (for all you golfers) that TIGER WOODS is in a partnership to develop a huge golfing resort on Providence Island.
Our Anchorage in Nassau at the digs of Nick Cage……ok so we don’t know Nick…
Of course we took the dinghy and went to ATLANTIS. They have a great public Aquarium, casino, galleries, restaurants, mega yachts, etc. Not having had Italian food for a while, we decided to branch out and go to “Carmines” a family style Italian restaurant. Which meant- large portions, high prices, and NOT gourmet as it turned out. Should have opted for the SUSHI. Dancing with the Kids at Senor Frog’s - Spring Breakers, was an interesting evening of adolescent ritual watching as, Marc and I too, managed to shake our booties.
Of course we took the dinghy and went to ATLANTIS. They have a great public Aquarium, casino, galleries, restaurants, mega yachts, etc. Not having had Italian food for a while, we decided to branch out and go to “Carmines” a family style Italian restaurant. Which meant- large portions, high prices, and NOT gourmet as it turned out. Should have opted for the SUSHI. Dancing with the Kids at Senor Frog’s - Spring Breakers, was an interesting evening of adolescent ritual watching as, Marc and I too, managed to shake our booties.
A fish named Wanda jamming mon….
Neptune’s seat….Atlantis At the abandoned house of a drug lord… Iguana @ Allens Cay
The week was not long enough and sadness prevailed on me as we took Virginia to the airport to return to NH. She returned, as stated, to snow still covering the grounds of Plymouth State.
And now we sit for a few more days until we head off for the Turks/Caicos enroute to Jamaica, Belize, Honduras, Colombia, Panama...... Thanks for joining us on our journey and email us anytime at :
pati@novationsinc.com.
Alphawave anchored at Norman Cay, Exumas
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